Archive for December, 2007

The streets of Florence are not safe on New Year’s Eve. Gangs of youths run amok, tossing firecrackers indiscriminately into crowds. Residents throw empty bottles from their windows. Rome, they say, is even worse. No matter, we usually spend New Year’s Eve at home, anyway.

When we lived in Florence we enjoyably spent the last day of the calendar year foraging in our favorite haunts. Cheeses, nuts, olives and a salmon spread from the Central Market, bread and rolls from Verrazzanno on Via dei Tavolini, a small pork roast from Sandro Polleria on Via dei Cerchi, rosemary, carrots, zucchini and Sicilian cherry tomatoes from the nearby fruit and vegetable vendor, a live lobster from Pescheria Alfredo on Borgo degli Albizi, and for dessert, fedora from Pasticceria Nencioni on Via Pietrapiana.

French pastries are generally better than Italian, but fedora is the best dessert I’ve ever tasted, a combination of rum-soaked cake and whipped cream, all encased in dark chocolate curls. To drink there was a hearty Chianti Classico from Villa S. Andrea, where we visited in November, and Lis Neris, a smooth pinot grigio from Friuli in the north where the best Italian whites are produced. As a digestif, Limoncello from Sorrento.

We invited Erminia Luschi, a newfound friend. Born in Salzburg, Erminia moved to Florence in 1958 at eighteen. Erminia illustrated children’s books, using pen and ink in powerful drawings, some of which were two-page spreads. She also did props and costumes for local theatre and worked as a designer for Salvatore Ferragamo.

After dinner, we decided to inaugurate the dishwasher. We’d all had a tad too much to drink. After a period of silence while reading the instructions, Erminia announced, “Start is an important button.” We added soap, pushed some buttons, and amazingly, it worked. There was a sudden panic when Erminia couldn’t find her reading glasses and worried they mistakenly went in with the dishes. While I tried to figure out how to shut off the contraption, she found them. “Too much Limoncello,” she laughingly concluded.

If I have one wish for 2008, it is to be more like the Italians and those who dwell there. As Canadians we are too reserved, our shoulders hunched to the ears and chins tucked into the chest as if trying to fend off winter’s cold even during the summer. People are affected by their weather, so Italy is a freer place because there is less huddling. But beyond such external forces, Italians know who they are, revel in their talents, enjoy the beauty in which they live, and respect the roles of others.

Sandy, my illustrator and my muse, joins me in wishing everyone a happy, healthy holiday. May all readers enjoy this wondrous season with family and friends. Take some time to reflect on what truly matters - it’s the Italian way!

Best wishes for 2008 and if Florence is not on your agenda, it should be!

Christmas on Via Roma, the street where we lived in Florence, is celebrated like no other neighborhood where we have ever spent the season. Early in December, trucks deliver numerous terra cotta tubs containing perfectly formed evergreen trees that are carefully tucked against the exterior walls of the shops for blocks around. Once the planters are in place, each tree is decorated with white fairy lights.

Similar white lights are strung across the street high above the pavement and while each block features the same dazzling color, every design is subtly different, so that when you look up and down the street you see a series of swags swaying that are all of a piece yet each is unique.

Individual storefronts are festooned with garlands of flowers and fruit arranged so artfully that they could have been done by the famed Renaissance ceramics workshop of Luca Della Robbia.

Even the street vendors are in sync with the season. The Asian women who usually shake armfuls of shawls at tourists now sell Santa hats with blinking lights or clip-on reindeer horns. I know they sound tacky but even these ornamental items have some class.

Nor is the real reason for Christmas forgotten. Churches give over their altars for what’s called presipio, manger scenes that range in size from a modest square meter to huge displays of carved figurines that go far beyond the traditional manger to include a tableau of the surrounding desert complete with trees, camels and mountains. In addition to these displays in churches, vacant shops are filled with similar scenes staffed by volunteers who accept donations for disabled children.

The only thing that’s missing are the Christmas discounts. By government fiat, prices can’t be slashed until January 7. No matter. Everything is so beautiful, the bargains can wait.

Yesterday afternoon’s Tuscany workshop was a great success. Putting together local tour operators with people from Tuscan hospitality services was a brilliant idea and a suitable launch for Enzo Colombo as he takes up his new post in Toronto as director for Canada of the Italian Government Tourist Board.

I arrived at the Columbus Centre in time for the evening event which included a speech by Enzo as well as a wonderful videotape of Tuscan scenery and art treasures which brought back many memories. Among the many items portrayed was Donatello’s David, my favorite work of art in all of Italy. David - not Michelangelo’s David - is in the Bargello in Florence and was the first statue done in the round since ancient times.

Another one of my favorites shown was the tomb of Ilaria del Carretto in Lucca, an hour northwest of Florence. I have always liked the dog at her feet, a symbol of her faithfulness. There are no tombs of Italian men shown with their dog, which may say something about their wayward ways.

Among the noteworthy guests at last night’s event were Veronica Ferrucci, Consul of Italy, and Paolo Ponti, Italian Trade Commissioner, both of whom are based in Toronto. Riccardo Strano, director for North America, was heading back to New York by the time I arrived.

I made a few remarks about Fantasy in Florence and gave away a few copies of our book. It’s the least I can do in return for the welcome Sandy and I received when we lived in Florence.

The first Christmas card to arrive at our house this year is from Angela Caputi, a wonderful jewelery designer and entrepreneur we met while living in Florence. Angela was one of many local artisans who opened her doors and her heart to us while we were there. I showed up unannounced at her retail outlet on Via Santo Spirito and could see her working at her desk through a glass wall. When I spoke to one of her assistants about meeting her, there was no hesitation, and Angela immediately came to the shop floor. Angela speaks excellent English, far better than my halting Italian, but she asked if she could conduct the interview in French, which was fine with me.

We chatted for two hours and toured the area where half a dozen women build her line of necklaces based on Angela’s designs. I learned that her ideas can and do come from anywhere. “Style changes every night. I am always searching for something new as well as pleasure from color and material.” She uses beads, semi-precious stones and tassels to create elegant pieces that are light and eye-catching. You can see more of them in retail outlets in Ottawa, Montreal, Milan and New York as well as online. Stylish work by a stylish lady.